Noma Returns with New Leadership and Fresh Approach

Noma Restaurant Set to Reopen

Denmark’s acclaimed Noma restaurant will reopen its doors on August 5. The reopening happens without its founder and renowned chef René Redzepi at the helm, as well as absent its distinctive three Michelin stars. In March, Redzepi announced his decision to “step away” from leading the renowned Copenhagen institution. This move followed accusations of abuse and assault against him, some dating back over a decade.

During Redzepi’s 23 years at Noma, the restaurant earned an array of international awards. It claimed the top spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants List five times, credited largely to its innovative “New Nordic” cuisine.

Noma’s New Chapter

With Redzepi stepping down, Noma begins a “new chapter” with a team of long-serving chefs steering the course. The menu will undergo monthly changes, emphasizing seasonal ingredients. New executive head chef Pablo Soto expressed the difficulties faced during the transition. “It’s been crazy tough,” Soto remarked, acknowledging the media attention and inquiries about their plans.

Challenges Transit to Reinvention

Criticism against Redzepi reached its peak just days before a planned Noma pop-up event in Los Angeles. Former employees detailed stories of verbal and physical abuse by Redzepi and his deputies, covering the years from 2009 to 2017. An article in The New York Times brought these stories to light, forcing Redzepi to apologize. He signaled his intention to “step away” in a heartfelt video shared on Instagram.

Noma plans to revitalize itself despite challenges. Tom Sietsema from NOTUS suggests Noma’s commitment to innovation since its 2003 opening will ensure its survival, provided Redzepi stays in the background. “It’s been the number one restaurant for years,” he noted. “People remain curious, and they’ll visit to form their own opinions.”

Restaurant Readjustment

Soto also highlighted that the restaurant’s reservations are nearly full through October. Guests will pay 4,500 Danish krone (approximately $686 USD) per head, with an additional 2,000 krone ($305) for wine pairing.

According to Soto, an internal audit was conducted, and new measures ensure a positive work environment for staff. “We’ve gone through a period of crisis,” he said. “We must be more attentive to each individual.”

Dynamic Menu Shift

Noma, derived from the Danish words for Nordic and food, opened in 2003, dedicated to exploring wild local ingredients and adhering to seasonal changes. The new menu iteration offers chefs the chance to embrace constant change.

The restaurant’s website describes the shift as “12 seasons of Noma.” Each month introduces a unique seasonal rhythm, shaped by subtle variations in ingredients, weather, and landscape. Chefs practiced preparing dishes with pike perch, brown crab, shrimp, and mushrooms in the restaurant’s open kitchen. Mette Brink Søberg, head of research and development, added vibrant flower petals to a berry gazpacho dish, sourced from the vicinity.

Industry Reflections

The departure of Redzepi is perceived by many as acknowledgment of the need to reassess when “brigade de cuisine” exceeds acceptable conduct, addressing the prevalent culture of bullying in fine-dining kitchens.

Sietsema observes a shift among restaurateurs and chefs, prioritizing staff treatment and compensation. Changes include revising work conditions and offering more time-off, with Noma starting to pay interns fully in 2022. “All these elements contribute to a significant change in the industry,” he concluded. “It’s inspiring better restaurants and hospitality practices.”

Dazio reported from Berlin. A free press is a cornerstone of a healthy democracy. Support trusted journalism and civil dialogue.