A Critical Look at the Biopic ‘Tony’

The biopic "Tony" portrays Anthony Bourdain’s formative years, focusing on a summer in 1975. Directed and co-written by Matt Johnson, the film captures a young Bourdain as he transforms within a Cape Cod restaurant kitchen.

In the movie, the mature, travel-hungry Bourdain seen in later television shows is absent. The narrative lacks depth, paralleling a coming-of-age story which could function without Bourdain being central.

Dominic Sessa stars as the teenage Bourdain, depicted as a misfit with a tense demeanor. His resemblance to musician Bob Dylan in appearance, rather than emotion, emphasizes a character who remains closed off throughout.

Bourdain’s experience in Provincetown is highlighted in his memoir "Kitchen Confidential" and illustrated in TV shows, marking a pivotal era. However, the film overly centers on this period without showing how Bourdain evolved into a global culinary figure.

The movie opens with a quote from "Kitchen Confidential" describing Bourdain’s troubled youth. He navigates through kitchen life, learning the trade and developing a passion for cuisine alongside an addiction to hard drugs. Yet, the film omits any portrayal of Bourdain’s heroin use and transformational journey.

Johnson and screenwriters Matthew Miller, Todd Bartels, and Lou Howe adapt Bourdain’s story, incorporating fictional elements. Antonio Banderas plays the mentor, but his character remains ambiguous. He embodies spiritual and religious traits in a problematic workplace. The film attempts dramatic narratives, such as adding a lobster thermidor to a menu, a cliched artistic growth moment.

Significant gaps exist as the film misses its mark on Bourdain’s passion for food as healing or celebrative. Touches of authentic Bourdain, like his childhood experience with oysters, lack vibrancy akin to animated films.

Cameos and performances provide moments of engagement. Chef Eric Ripert makes an appearance, and Emilia Jones adds depth as Bourdain’s love interest. Leo Woodall also stands out as Bourdain’s friend Sal.

Overall, focusing on a slice of a cultural figure’s life recently gained popularity but "Tony" falls short. The film offers glimpses but lacks the essence of an origin story.

The biopic, distributed by A24, premiered in Los Angeles and New York on August 7 and expanded on August 21. Rated R for language, drug use, and sexual content, "Tony" runs for 106 minutes. It receives two out of four stars.