The Origin and Evolution of the All-You-Can-Eat Buffet

In the post-World War II era, Las Vegas witnessed the birth of a culinary phenomenon. On a cool autumn evening, the city’s residents saw the grand opening of America’s first all-you-can-eat buffet at El Rancho Vegas. This event marked a shift in American dining culture, offering a new way to experience food that resonated with the dreams of attracting hungry tourists.

The origins of the buffet are surrounded by intriguing legends. A prominent story involves promoter Herb McDonald. According to his obituary published in 2002, McDonald launched the buffet by offering cheese and cold cuts to gamblers who expressed hunger. Other casinos soon followed, providing buffets that allowed patrons to sample a wide variety of dishes for a single price.

However, these tales are not without controversy. Las Vegas historian Jeffrey Carlson refutes the notion that the buffet was a simple innovation by the El Rancho. He offers another perspective, attributing the creation to the influence of the mob. Mobster Davie Berman, who relocated to Las Vegas in 1944, is credited by author Hal K. Rothman in “Neon Metropolis: How Las Vegas Started the Twenty-First Century” with hiring a chef to serve Jewish delicacies to guests, setting the stage for a Las Vegas tradition.

The popularity of the all-you-can-eat buffet quickly spread beyond Las Vegas. It reached restaurants such as Golden Corral and Ponderosa across the nation. Yet, as casual dining establishments like Olive Garden and Chili’s expanded, buffets began to lose their dominance in the food industry.

The landscape shifted dramatically in 2020 with the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic. Concerns over hygiene and food safety led to a decline in the appeal of large, communal food displays. Despite this, longtime Las Vegas food journalist Al Mancini believes that buffets will retain their place in the city’s culinary scene. “There’s a visceral reaction to just loading up that tray,” he notes, emphasizing the enduring love for the buffet experience.

This story is part of the series “American Objects,” commemorating the 250th anniversary of the United States.