The Complex Landscape of Raw Milk in America

Spending six months investigating raw milk was unexpected for me. In early June, a detailed story was published featuring Mark McAfee, owner of America’s largest raw-milk dairy. This emerged after examining how the Trump administration reshaped federal health policies. My team and I spoke with several civil servants who revealed a climate where routine science faced politicization. Raw milk was highlighted as an example. Scientists agree that raw milk offers no significant nutritional benefits compared to pasteurized milk and poses over 100 times the risk of foodborne illness. However, under Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr., the government’s approach to raw milk shifted, aligning with his advocacy. Kennedy celebrated the release of a health-focused federal report with raw-milk toasts at the White House.

McAfee, an advocate for raw dairy for over two decades, found raw milk gaining popularity. Over 10 million Americans consume it, with sales increasing by 65% from 2023 to 2024. While McAfee’s farm earns about $30 million yearly, it faces scrutiny from regulators due to links with recalls and outbreaks that sickened hundreds. Despite routine outbreaks of salmonella and E. coli, the popularity of raw milk puzzled me. Engaging with McAfee seemed essential to understand its foothold. My report dives deeper into my extensive exploration of his farm and my interactions with McAfee.

Mark McAfee’s Perspective

McAfee believes raw milk is misunderstood science. Raw milk isn’t pasteurized, a process that kills harmful bacteria, which are present in unpasteurized milk. Before widespread pasteurization, many fell ill from contaminated dairy. Most health experts see raw milk as having no proven nutritional edge or disease-curing ability. Nevertheless, McAfee claims consumers see benefits that studies haven’t captured. “If raw milk was a fad or a lie, why would people repeatedly buy raw milk and proclaim its benefits?” he asks, emphasizing customer stories as evidence.

Regulating Raw Milk

In 2006, an E. coli outbreak linked to McAfee’s farm sickened six people, illustrating the risks of raw milk. Affected was Chris Martin, who, at age seven, suffered permanent kidney damage. Despite introducing standards for unpasteurized dairies, McAfee’s efforts didn’t prevent further illnesses in subsequent years. Between 2023 and 2024, regulators blamed McAfee’s farm for a large salmonella outbreak affecting over 170 people. McAfee disputes many outbreak connections, questioning regulators’ illness tracking methods. Since 2006, his farm was linked to eight outbreaks, affecting over 230 individuals and hospitalizing at least 40.

Cheese Production Practices

Research dispels the belief that raw cheese resists pathogens. McAfee’s practice of using milk with pathogens for cheese surprised me. Later, I learned federal authorities knew his farm turned potentially contaminated milk into cheese, except for salmonella-laden batches. The FDA told the farm to halt this but needed a court ruling to enforce it. With court delays, changes in political leadership halted action against his practices.

“They have the guns and the money. I got the truth and the moms.”

While officials gathered evidence, McAfee encouraged consumer education. With Kennedy leading the Health Department, action on raw milk cases seemed deprioritized, benefiting McAfee’s position.

Recent Developments

After my visit, another E. coli outbreak traced back to McAfee’s cheese occurred. This affected nine people, mostly young children. A recall took 18 days during which McAfee claimed the farm wasn’t at fault, having found no pathogens in their tests. He admitted past practices of using problematic milk for cheese but assured new practices were safer.
The FDA closed the E. coli investigation without taking action. Despite ongoing concerns, McAfee’s products remain available in stores.